The Climbing Hanger is my latest squeeze, as I've just taken over an expedition launch patch covering Liverpool and the rest of the North West. It's not difficult to see why Dan Knight is so strong - awesome set up Dan!
Due to the new role (being pretty busy), I decided just before Christmas do operate closer to home, and with this in mind wanting to move away from a couple of pretty frustrating projects Angel Bay seemed like the obvious option.
|Etheral Walk In|
There is stuff over to the left of the bay, but due to about 20 or so seals nesting, this is no longer possible. The real interest for me now, is over to the right; This cluster is pretty magical really, with a real feel that something amazing is lying in wait, still undiscovered. Looking at to sea is leveling, and inspires relentlessly.
My free time over the last few weeks (maybe 5/6 sessions) has been spent cleaning and trying my new line; Cerulean Salt. I first looked at this with Dave Noden years ago, and it was quickly referred to as the Dave Graham wall. Pretty blank, asides form a poor sideways undercut, and a large rounded pocket toward the top of the wall. We decided to head back down on the 23rd December and I was amazed to find myself with a workable sequence! A few tweaks and a few weeks later, the line was sent, and the movement on this is stunning. Five moves to the top, with the third being a HUGE sideways launch to the pocket. This is just nuts. The video doesn't really do this thing justice. It's BIG, the holds are poor, and the landing is whack. I even pulled my dad in for a spot, who did seem slightly concerned at the time - great stuff.
Cerulean Salt Font 8a+/b from Chris Davies on Vimeo.
It's definitely worth getting down there at the moment. The line needs a repeat, and there are other things to do. I've re-cleaned Surfa Rosa (7b+/c), Spectrum (7a+), Sonic Boom (7b+/7c) and also another mega-8; Serpentine Pad.
Serpentine is a line that I first got a few years ago. Nobody seemed to get where it was exactly, which is odd, as its really easy to find. Its a cracker of a line, and if dynamic 8a is your thing, then get on it. Arm your self with a towel, butter knife (to get off any new, pesky limpets) and chalk. That's all you need. Oh - asides from good fingers. the holds are lush and very different but the move is crimpy, and again - this one is tough!
|Setting up on Serpentine Pad|
|Serpentine Pad 8a|
On a final word, and very important; mind the seals. The locals love 'em, and are very protective. If asked, explain politely where you are going (i.e. into the cluster) and they should be alright. I've had no issues. Bear down and to the left; silence is golden. Enter straight into the rocks. Don't do huge teams - just two, three max. If you can keep to this, access should be fine and ongoing. Don't blow it- I haven't finished stuff yet. Derw Fineron is making a film of 'New Wales' which should be mint, so I guess watch this space.