tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24641324185562891042024-02-06T20:27:28.701-08:00Chris Davies BoulderingHopefully, you'll find the ramblings below interesting, or at least maybe one or two of them. I'm not one for recording, but most definitely one for a good rant now and again. It would be good to get one or two of them on here. Anyhow, enjoy...Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-21646391325043612362015-02-08T04:25:00.000-08:002015-02-08T04:25:04.321-08:00Angel Bay Re-VistedWell, its been a huge amount of time since my last blog. With regards to my bouldering, stuff has been moving extremely slowly. As always, its been real easy to train; working on the roads allows access to many a wall, all of which seems to come equipped with decent wood to pull on (we love the wood!).<br />
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The Climbing Hanger is my latest squeeze, as I've just taken over an expedition launch patch covering Liverpool and the rest of the North West. It's not difficult to see why Dan Knight is so strong - awesome set up Dan!<br />
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Due to the new role (being pretty busy), I decided just before Christmas do operate closer to home, and with this in mind wanting to move away from a couple of pretty frustrating projects Angel Bay seemed like the obvious option. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Etheral Walk In</td></tr>
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Over the years, the area has had both good and bad press. If you go down when the conditions are bad and if you have not been acquainted with the place before, then you can come away feeling less than inspired by the place. However, if the conditions are good, then this is a different kettle of fish altogether. Its mind-blowing, and I love it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salty Seals</td></tr>
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There is stuff over to the left of the bay, but due to about 20 or so seals nesting, this is no longer possible. The real interest for me now, is over to the right; This cluster is pretty magical really, with a real feel that something amazing is lying in wait, still undiscovered. Looking at to sea is leveling, and inspires relentlessly.<br />
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My free time over the last few weeks (maybe 5/6 sessions) has been spent cleaning and trying my new line; Cerulean Salt. I first looked at this with Dave Noden years ago, and it was quickly referred to as the Dave Graham wall. Pretty blank, asides form a poor sideways undercut, and a large rounded pocket toward the top of the wall. We decided to head back down on the 23rd December and I was amazed to find myself with a workable sequence! A few tweaks and a few weeks later, the line was sent, and the movement on this is stunning. Five moves to the top, with the third being a HUGE sideways launch to the pocket. This is just nuts. The video doesn't really do this thing justice. It's BIG, the holds are poor, and the landing is whack. I even pulled my dad in for a spot, who did seem slightly concerned at the time - great stuff.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/118985791" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/118985791">Cerulean Salt Font 8a+/b</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user13929276">Chris Davies</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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It's definitely worth getting down there at the moment. The line needs a repeat, and there are other things to do. I've re-cleaned Surfa Rosa (7b+/c), Spectrum (7a+), Sonic Boom (7b+/7c) and also another mega-8; Serpentine Pad.<br />
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Serpentine is a line that I first got a few years ago. Nobody seemed to get where it was exactly, which is odd, as its really easy to find. Its a cracker of a line, and if dynamic 8a is your thing, then get on it. Arm your self with a towel, butter knife (to get off any new, pesky limpets) and chalk. That's all you need. Oh - asides from good fingers. the holds are lush and very different but the move is crimpy, and again - this one is tough!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting up on Serpentine Pad</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serpentine Pad 8a</td></tr>
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On a final word, and very important; mind the seals. The locals love 'em, and are very protective. If asked, explain politely where you are going (i.e. into the cluster) and they should be alright. I've had no issues. Bear down and to the left; silence is golden. Enter straight into the rocks. Don't do huge teams - just two, three max. If you can keep to this, access should be fine and ongoing. Don't blow it- I haven't finished stuff yet. Derw Fineron is making a film of 'New Wales' which should be mint, so I guess watch this space.<br />
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<br />Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-68789048304419687192014-01-15T04:35:00.000-08:002014-01-15T04:52:29.304-08:00The Psyche is High<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">So, its been a huge amount of time since I last posted - I guess there hasn't been much to tell. I've pretty much been training since last March; juggling a handful of projects, and handful of children, and a huge amount of work along with a huge amount of doubt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To add to this, I bought a house and turned 40 (!), so seemed to lose a couple of months of activity from June through to September. Oh - lets not forget the weather. Oh my god - what is happening? To get a dry day without an early morning downpour to scupper the conditions would be just heavenly. Seepage is rife in Wales. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Believe it or not, these are not complaints, I prefer to think of it as a test - a battle of wills if you will. I've had a great time over the last two months trying a couple of sweet lines, and am very close now - such a relief! I feel as though my old chain of thought and drive is back - probably even more so than ever before. I also feel as though I am now stronger than ever - its nice to be feeling that again, its been to long.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Its been a roller-coaster emotionally, this last year or so; I've lost friends, and gained new ones. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Old friends have returned, and some - well, maybe the relationships where not what I thought they where from the outset. Its funny what some people can forget if they truly put their minds to it - that's not my loss, but still, I would have expected a lot more from some people. It's taken me a huge amount of effort, sleepless nights and questioning to be able to move on in the correct direction, and personally, from the doubts suggested by some, to make the correct personal decision - to push even harder.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project No. 1 - So Cool!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">With above in mind, its been a real breath of fresh air, to return back to my routes of real bloc bouldering. To operating in my bubble, to enjoying the spaces that I visit; and most importantly to really enjoying my climbing again with the people that count. Currently, I am really fucking psyched - the lines are sweet and life is good (asides from the dampness) and </span><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I did feel compelled to write something, if only brief. Also, I wanted to thank the people that stuck with me and that inspired me to push back, and to carry on doing my thing.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I hope that my next post might be slightly more inspirational, and that you enjoy reading and watching the results as much as I'll enjoy topping out - its been a while and my hands are sweating. I'm off out. </span><br />
<br />Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-61122542759958550152012-08-27T00:49:00.001-07:002012-08-27T00:49:19.782-07:00That Pesky CaveIts been some time, due to this and that, since my last post. Last season was mostly spent training and falling off my project line, and off the back of this I decided that enough was enough - time to change the mind set.<br />
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I had a random session a few weeks back with Dave (aka Polish Dave), and it really changed my focus and the way I have been applying myself both physically and mentally for a fair while now. I was massively impressed by the sheer will and determination on show (how strong can fingers on a 13.5 stone guy be?!), and also mainly the positive aspects and attitude towards the sport and trying hard. On returning back to Wales, I kinda put everything into perspective and changed my entire view and approach to how I was operating, and guess what - it worked.<br />
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The simplicity of it all after self analyzing? I wasn't trying hard enough, had radically changed the way in which I train and what has worked for me for the last 10 years or so, and had convinced myself that maybe I didn't have the strength that I thought I had - indeed, the complete opposite. The good news is that I am now on fire, and have a plan. This began on Monday with my first new Cave ascent for some time - The Last Stand.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Last Stand 8a+</td></tr>
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I dabbled with this new line some time ago, and last week after having sent pretty much all of the hardest moves in the cave i.e. Undercut Move, Louis Armstrong Crux, Crucial Times etc (which all felt great!), I turned my attention back to this. The moves itself is pure: pull on, stabalise, and flick. Power and precision just as it should be. Once matched (which felt hard to me!), I dropped off having achieved my goal.<br />
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Its a funny one for me, the cave, as its all about the link-ups these days as opposed to test of strength as ti was back in the late 90's. So with this is mind, I camer back on the Monday to repeat the feat and link it into the Left Wall Traverse to give the full Last Stand at 8a+. Good Job, and much more to come very soon!<br />
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<br />Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-54559047082875274882012-05-01T02:15:00.001-07:002012-05-01T02:15:11.517-07:00A Touch to Much.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, it's been a while. My writing hand has been quite busy recently, mostly having been put to use pulling on small holds which it may have recently transpired, are <i>potentially</i> too small for me.<br />
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I say <i>potentially</i>, because in the optimistic bubble (within which I exist), they never stay too small for too long. I'll ignore the last hours worth of trashing the hotel rooms' door frames (which I have yet to maintain for another couple of weeks), and do my usual; which is to pretend that all good things come easy. Wow - Rock 'n' Roll. Trashing the door frames. Obviously, this was after I threw the TV out of the window.<br />
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My main objective this year still hasn't come about. It's difficult this particular line. I wasn't sure at first, and so played the whole thing down in my head. After continued and protracted efforts, it has become apparent that indeed the holds are utterly rubbish, the rock is steep and the last move is a long way - a 6 ft move off a less than 1/4 inch pad with minimal in-cut, to a very large swing. <br />
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I am now hanging off a slightly loose, although highly glossed door frame in Towcester. If it pulls off, I have some blue tack. That should be enough to adhere the wood back onto the plaster until the cleaning lady has been in, assessed the room to ensure that it is damage free and has left again. I'm guessing that either a roofer on contract or a travelling PC salesman will get the shit tomorrow, just before checking out. At least my fingers will get closer to the 10% they need.<br />
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I'm still enjoying the process though, as ever. Although I do wish that I was slightly more progressive on this one, as opposed to doing a 'Michael Jackson' on it. I've always been a bit crap at moon-walking, but it does feel a like I'm quite an authority at the minute. It would be nice to get this done before the conditions come and go, and according to Bubbles, its forecast to be the coldest May EVER! It would be good and I do feel as though, having been so close only three weeks ago, that I may have earned the privilege of topping out this side of my 39th birthday.<br />
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The last couple of months haven't been a complete loss however, and a couple of bits came and went whilst still fun. I think that these last two are very worthwhile, so if your waiting for new Welsh difficulties, maybe go and try these for a bit. Don't rush and get them done to quickly though, the pressure might just get to much to bare.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Terror Twilight 7c+, Nant Peris, North Wales</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Noise 8a+, Tan y Grisiau, North Wales</td></tr>
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</div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-52958013905610580902012-04-30T15:01:00.001-07:002012-04-30T15:02:57.294-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JR36YO7j98MCeSAoi95mKO7z-gzFA77fhORlzVqvZuDOHZzO56GNGG6IWpF2pV5ZnTdzNhPkVh_fEipjQXHp8HhEBMjuvxrPFbjzuyhyphenhyphenYYlaWvM-RZDO5J_xU25dqhqb4nHrPGLEAgLv/s1600/CNV00009-1.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JR36YO7j98MCeSAoi95mKO7z-gzFA77fhORlzVqvZuDOHZzO56GNGG6IWpF2pV5ZnTdzNhPkVh_fEipjQXHp8HhEBMjuvxrPFbjzuyhyphenhyphenYYlaWvM-RZDO5J_xU25dqhqb4nHrPGLEAgLv/s400/CNV00009-1.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 0px;" /><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></a>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-3564320953669884752012-04-30T15:00:00.000-07:002012-04-30T15:03:09.601-07:00Climbing Mountains, and all that.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0X4exg800L5Rhz13gxZia67ZXXSE1y6fi_Ph1dMF2vVCQCWF9Wv0entf6vWAjjWx0bHkkyaphXcZ_Gt4-1X-xzvJW3_8PKMB9nRjkjY2PCTSlefygP7AqrEBaNFDRkFX3Cn3_8LKDDnDn/s1600/IMG00165-20110415-1409.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0X4exg800L5Rhz13gxZia67ZXXSE1y6fi_Ph1dMF2vVCQCWF9Wv0entf6vWAjjWx0bHkkyaphXcZ_Gt4-1X-xzvJW3_8PKMB9nRjkjY2PCTSlefygP7AqrEBaNFDRkFX3Cn3_8LKDDnDn/s320/IMG00165-20110415-1409.jpg" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a> I've always thought that climbing mountains in this country was a bit of an odd thing to do.<br />
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<a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-37947671992728817932011-12-13T01:35:00.000-08:002011-12-13T01:35:22.423-08:00And so... Deadhangs and Fingers<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zuzkGN5aOLWpHO8tn0zKC5XrlgVIU9xKTxY24oEBBwnInPCHfYnBvzQbwSYmBLB-6-LlAq6-cNHMBcC8YplFjTTkiyMzmL52pGyHzPD9iO0FeFg5XXqPULYMZ9mBEB3865vZRz3lK2LK/s1600/IMG00659-20111209-1301.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zuzkGN5aOLWpHO8tn0zKC5XrlgVIU9xKTxY24oEBBwnInPCHfYnBvzQbwSYmBLB-6-LlAq6-cNHMBcC8YplFjTTkiyMzmL52pGyHzPD9iO0FeFg5XXqPULYMZ9mBEB3865vZRz3lK2LK/s400/IMG00659-20111209-1301.jpg" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 0px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example No. 1: Dead-hang the 'Unbreakable'. A one arm pull up would be nice at some point.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Well, the weather didn't really do what it should have done, but did do what I expected it to. Optimism does not work every time, but I'm still hoping that things will change pretty soon - I'm pretty excited about rocks at the moment, and am still managing to move towards my target weight to maximise efficiency this season (if it ever arrives!).<br />
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I was on the road yesterday, and still am. I ended up having to stay in Harrogate due to a meeting over running and low and behold - it was pretty damn wet. I was supposed to session with Posh Dave [Jones], but due to travel time had to blow this off. I don't think young Master Jones was to impressed. I'm guessing he was looking forward to kicking my butt all over the place in his local - Durham Wall. I'm pretty sure I could have held my own, after all, he is only about 16 or something (sorry Dave - ha!!). This does mean I'm a session down now this week, so I'll have to hit The Mill to train tomorrow to make up for it.<br />
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Bringing me on to The Mill - its a Love/Hate relationship at the minute, as I really do have an overwhelming desire to pull hard on the blocs right now, but the British weather is not helping me to achieve here. Indoors is <em>soooo</em> not where I want to be right now! So, you have to make the most of what you do have. So - I've decided to get a bit more inventive/proactive on the finger front. Before travelling to Austria, I thought I was doing the right thing by my digits, but it transpired that although they there doing quite well, they needed way more working out.<br />
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Extreme dead hangs are now the way forward in my mind. I feel that I can get power, loose weight and rely on wizardry quite easily but to get the fingers up - I think they are pretty good right now, so improvements will not come quickly, thus the new siege of 'Extreme Finger Training'. I think I'm looking at a month of this for good gains, over two sessions a week. The exercises are all pretty static, which should ensure (touch wood (ahem...)) minimal risk of injury and hopefully a distinct rise in finger prowess. There is always the power that comes alongside this inadvertently: you can't hang off your tips to the max without using your arms, lats and obliques to stabilise, so the whole thing should lead to a vast improvement of standard stability. I think this comes into play when you need to feel solid and fresh in a mid problem, otherwise strenuous position (I always chant 'you've just pulled on, your fresh, you've just pulled on, you're fresh...').<br />
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Anyhow, another wood based ramble - hopefully this will trancend into ascent style news pretty soon as I am slowley loosing the plot here.<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: LEFT;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-79885615754464262302011-12-07T13:36:00.000-08:002011-12-07T13:36:21.991-08:00Its getting colder...Its getting <i>colder</i>... Hopefully this is it - the late beginnings to the season. So far, there's been a few forays into the mountains, checking out this years projects. Despite a pretty poor partnership between skin and rock, things where getting close. Maybe with the change in the wind, we could be cooking on charcoal.<br />
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I think retaining psyche when your mad keen and the weather is not good, or when its mint and your spending days on end on the road, three weeks down, and one hour of pulling for your efforts. I think all you can do is to keep the weight off. I had a stomach bug this week, so that helped.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglegR89ZMvLCe5YvKX2BC4parUPfEUkpuARR44NdYC1T-N3rx-VKtdIqX3ij370urO3q2URIoHWzFwT7P8mPfhk1qlFoHmgIq9YVZXyxqsDJfU9eNntM3lfJpwiDJRpEbZWYlc9m-s2obi/s1600/DSC_0013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglegR89ZMvLCe5YvKX2BC4parUPfEUkpuARR44NdYC1T-N3rx-VKtdIqX3ij370urO3q2URIoHWzFwT7P8mPfhk1qlFoHmgIq9YVZXyxqsDJfU9eNntM3lfJpwiDJRpEbZWYlc9m-s2obi/s1600/DSC_0013.JPG" /></a>I'm hoping that this weekend, despite turning into a hunchback from all of the driving, I should be ready to pull - I'm reckoning that either the rocks have 'drip-over' from the melting snow, or we'll be lucky enough to see a freeze in the Welsh mountains. I need to get this latest one sent as the walk is only interesting for a while, then becomes a chore (over an hours walk up into the hills is a fair pop to me at my age). Still, its keeps you fit and once there, each and every time it blows my mind!! I am feeling the urge to move on though, as there are various pieces of unfinished business right now, and powers are good.<br />
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So, I guess on Sunday there may be something worth reading about on this page of mine. Stranger things have happened, and either way, I'm feeling sparky.Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-24545464476442842972011-10-30T01:13:00.000-07:002011-12-14T00:49:13.848-08:00Emotional Landscapes - so amazing.<div style="text-align: right;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfM_Afbx_hN1VsXaroDRRgPkGTJe-Z2OYwW-dCuJQNyjZGthNhsaTSLnW8OzGes1h7R9B_VutvznqQ8enzwsn5xhuj2wJcoM4k-Tcb9FxUi5LldU2EHk5SNup_1ALzWQba5-2bIgYWInD/s1600/DSC_0082-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfM_Afbx_hN1VsXaroDRRgPkGTJe-Z2OYwW-dCuJQNyjZGthNhsaTSLnW8OzGes1h7R9B_VutvznqQ8enzwsn5xhuj2wJcoM4k-Tcb9FxUi5LldU2EHk5SNup_1ALzWQba5-2bIgYWInD/s320/DSC_0082-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Crossover - I love this move! To match the crimp for the jump is nuts.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrfUanRfQUOhBtK9OtvRVltVJ7k4uNF7tAm6_9PM-CfnjjU8KTCqZ2om4Wp1AC8y5AskKl1ZfuC594jIM3loxZefIbty1kFFlo0rhhB5nCGB3bIlGBxXh37H1Anca9J4DyDf-MF-XsVnEP/s1600/DSC_0162-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrfUanRfQUOhBtK9OtvRVltVJ7k4uNF7tAm6_9PM-CfnjjU8KTCqZ2om4Wp1AC8y5AskKl1ZfuC594jIM3loxZefIbty1kFFlo0rhhB5nCGB3bIlGBxXh37H1Anca9J4DyDf-MF-XsVnEP/s320/DSC_0162-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This move is a stunner - 8b from a stand </td></tr>
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">There is always something that gets in the way of a well thought out plan. I carried out the planning and the training schedule as well as I could. On arrival the weather was looking conducive to pulling on the rocks. And then the inevitable - humidity and rain…</span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">On Monday, I awoke to pristine skies, a cold wind from the north and reasonably cold temperatures (around 5 degrees). This was by no means perfect, but at least I could session the moves properly for the first time in seven days. It was amazing, the friction on the otherwise sugary smooth granite had become apparent, and the moves now seemed possible. At last – the jump move was really close now, and the swing seemed to be slowing down. So, very close indeed to the two crux moves, which link all of this together. The top out campus crossover was still pretty tricky though - Klem had made this look pretty easy!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">I’m pretty optimistic as a person, and in my mind had already now convinced myself that the climb was potentially on. Sat in the tent on the mountainside later on that evening, running through the moves and the possibilities, I was pretty psyched as if the trip turned out to be successful, I would have indeed climbed one of the worlds hardest problems in a single trip; and then the rain…</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">I’ve never been on such a trip where the weather has played such a bad hand. The clouds and the mist had rolled in (you are normally above all of this at 1500m here), and the temp’ was now at an all time high of 12 degrees – impossible now. The usual colour of the rock here is an off white/light gray. It had now all blacked out. I went for a walk up into forest to have as look at the damage, and as expected the boulder problem was totally blown out. Myself and Dave session-ed the moves just incase, but where there had been friction enough to function well earlier there was now no chance at all that this was going to go.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Last time I visited this area, to try another boulder (The Power of Goodbye, V13) it was -9 during the day and -26 at night. I was successful here, and got the first British ascent of this one (one if just six in total over 10 years including Slovenian, American and Austrian ascents). At the end of the trip, I tried Emotional Landscapes briefly and was amazed by how possible it all felt. Unfortunately when you add around 20 degrees, the probability drops off in spades. I waited for another day and a half for the weather to turn around, contemplating the success and the failure of the trip. During this time, I had a conversation with a team of Italians and a local guy (Andy) within which it emerged that a certain strong American (Daniel Woods), had arrived last year in perfect conditions, and had failed on the crux moves also. Daniel has climbed the same grade in other countries in one day, and put forward that in his estimation, that Emotional Landscapes was by far the hardest.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Looking at failing is a difficult thing. I chose to be a slightly more adjective, and look at how close I was to succeeding. Basically, in one decent session I had achieved a level higher than my standard current form. I climbed better and harder. If I could have had the same conditions that I had on the one day it all came together (or even colder), then my chances of success where very high. I was pleased that I hadn't unconvinced myself of my own capabilities and I will travel back next February when I know it will be cold enough to send the thing. It is very apparent why Klem Loskot named the climb as he did: the rollercoaster experiences when you are pushing yourself to your physical limits day in and day out is unreal, and to keep going back when everything is against you takes determination and patience. Driving back home, a 25 hour, 1200 mile journey. To keep the chain of thought, to keep the drive and maintain psyche is very difficult, but I will go back and I will succeed. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">I had the same issue with a problem in Cresciano some years back, and travelled back and forth in my trusty Volvo V40 four times. That’s over 8000 miles to climb four moves on a piece of granite. I knew I could do it and I did. So the moral of the story: </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Don’t give up – ever. If you want to do something, just do it – you can. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A huge thanks to Mabel from Boreal and Matt Wells from Outlook Expeditions for helping me out to get here, and hopefully I can do you justice in 2012. Also, big ups to Lee, Stuart and Rich at Prana and Metolius. Next time guys, next time!!</span></div><br />
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</div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-91994269355274637902011-10-22T05:26:00.000-07:002011-10-22T05:26:03.593-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ56Rds9VV_hEBImBU3aZUF9VBNMwgdlpPPBersz-7tBbeDuymE0LtxGGzONMfStrx2ORJ1JOin5C7_Ue-snBlg88PgZSaI69bcMrSQNuGBSgvC8LQ1fC0VpTnk6Qcn0XAqic4W54su8Kh/s1600/DSC_0114.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ56Rds9VV_hEBImBU3aZUF9VBNMwgdlpPPBersz-7tBbeDuymE0LtxGGzONMfStrx2ORJ1JOin5C7_Ue-snBlg88PgZSaI69bcMrSQNuGBSgvC8LQ1fC0VpTnk6Qcn0XAqic4W54su8Kh/s400/DSC_0114.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a>Right then, it seems to be taking a while to push this one forward. I'm still pleasantly suprised as to how hard this is, mostly due to the fact that lots of people claim hard ascents abroad (including me!), that just are'nt that difficult. This on the other hand, is proper nails. To give you a picture, Jon Gaskins' 'Heart of it All', but beatiful and more of it. Enough said...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3e-xYF0WHpPUmGnrIZxT4xDQHdHfSUn8xjYTps2cwEC0P9qvEJsib6rXaMGWEfGdnfVWXhU-CufYXl80udD87Hodp5lxxO6w2sDCQhmQ3B6zKOP-ER3tCRciLLhKPpdBn5DqfFDkRjuT5/s1600/DSC_0095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3e-xYF0WHpPUmGnrIZxT4xDQHdHfSUn8xjYTps2cwEC0P9qvEJsib6rXaMGWEfGdnfVWXhU-CufYXl80udD87Hodp5lxxO6w2sDCQhmQ3B6zKOP-ER3tCRciLLhKPpdBn5DqfFDkRjuT5/s320/DSC_0095.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>I had a session yesterday after two days on and a rest day, and things are moving on well, but slowley - three weeks would be great! Three cruxes which keep moving - the first move is bloc 8a in my head, and a hop match on the photo to get this crimp ready for the jump - harder. The final one is the jump, but this is just conditions to move confidintley, and a good core. Currently, I'm sat in a cafe drinking Gussser, which is Gut, Besser, Gusser - but obviously this will not help my six pack function!!<br />
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Last time I was here, I formed an affinity to these three trees. I was trying Power of Goodbye, and each tree became a move. Basically, we camped in front of of these for two weeks in -26. I liked the way they looked, and felt that they where very significant for some reason. I'm here again now with another three, and I hope that if they are watched long enough, with the right chain of consciousness the same may happen.<br />
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Difficulty aside, I still believe in Santa, and the tooth fairy is real.<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: LEFT;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-41559137311525534562011-10-20T05:22:00.000-07:002011-10-20T05:22:25.477-07:00Emotional Times<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlHDwqTxH60az9XNlbFqzMHhlukmhiz2Utx1plX1AhM9xtD_UqwsVQIj1P2WxQMJnGM1qkusc_tlK-Eb_IkAtxFFQEu0oPhDRiaN-HEwI0NewcKFcaxw56_seYizdM9Okk8dFCuKX8tPxp/s1600/DSC_0082.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; FLOAT: left; CLEAR: both" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlHDwqTxH60az9XNlbFqzMHhlukmhiz2Utx1plX1AhM9xtD_UqwsVQIj1P2WxQMJnGM1qkusc_tlK-Eb_IkAtxFFQEu0oPhDRiaN-HEwI0NewcKFcaxw56_seYizdM9Okk8dFCuKX8tPxp/s400/DSC_0082.JPG" /></a>So, we finally made it here - Malta, Austria. The project in mind revealed: Emotional Landscapes 8b+, and worth every ounce of the grade,<br /><br />It has been a long haul from training at The Mill, to getting onto the problem, and its stunning. The drive was epic as usual - 1200miles in the the 98' 106 and fair play to the bronze beast, it got us here in one piece. <br /><br />After having spent 2 days working the problem , on first aqaintance it was apparent that this is the real deal, Klem was indeed very strong, and the moves are nails!! I'm glad - cheap ticks are not worth the petrol, and its great to get stuck into something quite special and very hard.<br /><br />So far, success has been minimal, but I'm starting to feel the moves, the power is seeping in and I have a sequence. I have no idea ast this point if I can get this done in such a short amount of time, but I am as always optimistic.<br /><br />The snow has fallen today, and it has forcast minus degrees, so hopefully the holds will remain white, as opposed to blackening out after two seconds on the rock. A rest day today, down in Gmund, will hopefully lead to the stand up being done tomorrow. Temperatures are so important at this stage - the problem basically centres around 8 very powerful moves, all of which are very hard to link.<br /><br />As ever, I love it, and am happy to spend the next few days on my pad, looking at the boulder and trying to move and link on this amazing piece of climbing. More soon.....<div style='clear:both; text-align:LEFT'><a href='http://picasa.google.com/blogger/' target='ext'><img src='http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif' alt='Posted by Picasa' style='border: 0px none ; padding: 0px; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; -moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial;' align='middle' border='0' /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-24753196470552966182011-10-10T12:19:00.000-07:002011-10-10T12:19:00.918-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisC1AQ9p6joh971QvzQ7RAy2EP4cN174S4FLaIJukihBdPQTR1D4GYp7lOcDrZRD1SbgPmzLrwoSJRBfybcR09brf34agqv2OzQVNRkXwktZahE0JMxUBT0XeGqhWhYRTk88LWrWMuzIYl/s1600/CNV00020.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisC1AQ9p6joh971QvzQ7RAy2EP4cN174S4FLaIJukihBdPQTR1D4GYp7lOcDrZRD1SbgPmzLrwoSJRBfybcR09brf34agqv2OzQVNRkXwktZahE0JMxUBT0XeGqhWhYRTk88LWrWMuzIYl/s400/CNV00020.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a>I think that after this long wait, that its time to hit the road. The picture shows the road I'm hitting. I've spent a fair while now training to the point where wood is no longer good (well, thats a lie!).<br />
<br />
But... it is time for granite, and a travel. The Mill has done its job, Indy has played a part, The Cave has had a resurgence, but really - none of those places are where I have wanted to be for a long time.<br />
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Soon, I'll be waking up, brewing fresh coffee and brushing holds. Slowly warming up into the day - nothing in the way of the concentration. The smell of pine, the breeze as you wait for that moment....<br />
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Next Sunday, thats it. 1130 miles from my house to the problem. Its time to try and realise what I have been thinking about for 6 months, to try and live a bit of a dream really. I watched a video of the 1st ascent earlier today, and WOW - I'm gonna do it!! <br />
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WATCH THIS SPACE... (or not!)...<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: LEFT;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-277269985659708752011-08-14T10:48:00.000-07:002011-08-14T10:48:11.090-07:00A Sudden Urge and a Long Wait.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cfXOrzL5kw7i8sor9KuH6dKWGLozdFlIinWe-epsWqhpxCp78fE8f5pqD75HUR8PCuFsJ6kA9z3cdDLBQoP7d4Nnlto0N7MSyhw9GajnC2m_Z7iU2zim1T2bOgqLTqHNxIJjNW-ip23g/s1600/16530_633540523889162500.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cfXOrzL5kw7i8sor9KuH6dKWGLozdFlIinWe-epsWqhpxCp78fE8f5pqD75HUR8PCuFsJ6kA9z3cdDLBQoP7d4Nnlto0N7MSyhw9GajnC2m_Z7iU2zim1T2bOgqLTqHNxIJjNW-ip23g/s400/16530_633540523889162500.jpg" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a> After having been training now for the last four months with a further two more to go, thinking about getting over to my destination for the start of it all still seems like such a long wait. <br />
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I was listening to a fair bit of music today, and most of it seemed to lead my mind astray into thoughts of wanderlust. Its been a fair while now since I last went on a trip (maybe three years), with the last one giving me Power Of Goodbye over in Austria as a prize for my efforts. Even Daisy was playing Manu Negra upstairs, reminding me of trips to central America nearly fours years ago.<br />
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After a few weeks of injury, I went back to the wood expecting to have been totally shut down. Surprisingly enough, it was quite the opposite, and I had my best session since I began the whole thing. If your reading this, then I guess your probably getting pretty sick of ramblings of wooden boards and sanded, sloping 2mm footholds (tension - hell yeah!). Believe me, I can't wait until I can write about sweeping granite formations in awe inspiring, mountainous settings. Tales of bravado, perseverance, wasted nights and massive success rates. Well, despite the sudden urge, I too will be waiting until October 16th to get over to attempt Plan A, and in the meantime keep on plugging away.<br />
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Work is soon to get in the way of the whole thing, so I guess its a matter of maintaining current form, and maybe dropping a four or five of pounds (not much - skinny doesn't get power). I can just about deal with real life for this amount of time. <br />
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The draw of waking up in the wild, next to the rocks is begining to eat at me. Brewing a strong fresh coffee, staring out over the mountains and wondering - will it go? Genius.<br />
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<div style="clear: both; text-align: LEFT;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-60509294810012538592011-08-09T14:54:00.000-07:002011-08-09T14:55:24.220-07:00The Power Returns!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As suspected - it was all about fatigue. Its amazing how you can convince yourself that it's all going terribly wrong when the trend is in play. I'd just burnt myself out following some crazy persons training routine (which has actually worked - well done Dave).</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I always feel happiest and at my functioning best when I am projecting, as I really can't seem to pull anything out of the bag any-more when faced with uninspiring lines, tried purely for a quick tick or ascended for the just for the grade. </span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nope, sometimes all it takes is a beautiful</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> line with great moves and amazing positions and your back in motion. </span> <br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today, I felt nothing short of super human. Having skin left (unfortunately) is not one of my super powers, so I'll have to wait a day or so before I go back.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Brilliant.</span>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-43192124053698268392011-08-08T02:17:00.001-07:002011-08-08T03:17:59.669-07:00Oh Dear - Something has Gone Missing....<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqQrEwA5hTXTPMTOfKvrwvPEQRwB2EDNlt8fpct1H7d1dhrmo-sKEvaV83btbEDy_Wo9tGmay0jlVLb3Pm9qpI47mZsNSYz7-Gq2_TM2WKibMFW2e1S3IHwzjUN8Rn0iEdD-h3c6GNOeM/s1600/IMG00289-20110531-1626.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqQrEwA5hTXTPMTOfKvrwvPEQRwB2EDNlt8fpct1H7d1dhrmo-sKEvaV83btbEDy_Wo9tGmay0jlVLb3Pm9qpI47mZsNSYz7-Gq2_TM2WKibMFW2e1S3IHwzjUN8Rn0iEdD-h3c6GNOeM/s320/IMG00289-20110531-1626.jpg" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a><br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: LEFT;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="-moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Training was going very well. I say was, as all of my super-powers seem to have gone missing. I have no idea when this happened, but most definitely at some point over the last two weeks.</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Mill was going well, with the last session improving psyche. The standard 3 hour session was completed in 1hr 29mins, with no problems dropped (around 40 problems, most of which are around 7c - 8a). All of a sudden, a slight finger niggle, followed by a sore elbow (again) and now a sprained neck. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last three sessions have been terrible: <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1 x Mountain Bouldering Hit = Dave 1, Chris 0.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> 1 x Cave Session = Crucial Times 0, Chris 1</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> 1 x Cave Session = Dave 1, Chris 0</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> 1 x Away Hit = Dave 2, Chris 1</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its not difficult to see a pattern emerging here! I'm not sure if this is a mental block (indoors to outdoors transition?), or a physical one? I could have used by bodies natural glycogen resources over doing it and dieting (all the weight is now back on, by the way). Also, with being injured, this can lead to muscular and neurological shut down to avoid further injury. Who knows - one thing I do know for sure is that I cant pull right now!</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm going swimming in a bit, and then up in the mountains tomorrow. Most importantly, I'm back to The Mill on Thursday. I think at this point it is very important to gauge myself on exercises that I know and understand, and then build again from here. It could all very well be piss and wind, shockingly bad conditions, low psyche on crap limestone - lets hope so. Very minimal alcohol now for a month, and a very healthy and minimal diet. I've got two months before I go overseas. V14/8b+ in a trip. 1 repeat in 10 years. Not a soft tick. Again, if you find any missing powers, let me know and I'll be mucho appreciato.</span></div>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-26217886284369231362011-04-07T15:18:00.000-07:002011-04-07T15:31:40.632-07:00So, what's been happening?Well, its been pretty messy of late - lots going on but no consolidation! Now, there's a change. Lets go back a few weeks: I had a bit of business in Shepshed, of the Loughborough fame, so decided to nip over to the peak in between meetings for a couple of days.<br />
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First up on a pretty misty, slightly damp day was Feel Good up at Eagle Tor. I looked at and tried this ten years ago on the way to Fontainebleau but was thwarted by rain and a desire to at least keep some of my skin until I got to France. I wasn't sure if it was banned these days, so sneaked up stealth wise, and hung out for a couple of hours. Feel Good did feel very good, and I think for a one mover, I would go with Jerry's original grade of 8a. For a simplistic pull on the grit, its harder than The Joker, which I think 7c/+ anyway (can't beat a bit of contention). The day was a beauty, with pretty and magical, ethereal qualities. I could do that every day.<br />
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I also walked up to the Stride to check out Sweet Thing. Sweet indeed, but very damp and grainy. This is definitely still on from both sitting and standing, and I doubt the grade is any different. I would love to catch that sloper from either - very tasty. Next up, Cratcliffe. I hadn't pulled on T-Crack or Jerry's for at least 8 years, and both where still really cool (Jerry' s is better!). <br />
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Rowtor was next: I like this venue. I'd had a chat with Dave Mason a while back, who gave me the low down. Its a bit creepy I think, what with the obvious Druidic history - you can imagine the tonsured loons sacrificing all sorts up there back in the day. There is actually a small door way with steps out the back and a tiny room to the right which I was not tempted to go in. This wasn't through fear of wankered and violent tramps hiding from the rain - there is something slightly bad steeped into some of the holes around there (best left alone I think). I did a damp Quince (hopefully not Mo's finest hour?), then alas, back in the car for another stint.<br />
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I'm training now. 168 days to go and (sad as it sounds) I am loving the wood. Nodder is putting me through the paces. I've never really trained before, so its pretty cool. I need the coaching, as I'm quite lazy (relying on strong fingers and wizardry can only get you so far these days). Dave - keep me going!! We discussed how cool it would be to be able to train every other day in the mill with the current structure for this 168 duration- holy shit, it would be through the roof! Unfortunately, unrealistic (for me anyway). <br />
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Saying this, my dead hanging is 'mucho bueno', so hopefully the rest will follow. I need to loose 6 pounds, but slowly. This way, my fingers will consolidate, and the weight will stay off. Need to keep the guns though - its a great club to get free membership to. Can't loose that now , can we.Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-51038425413736908612011-03-02T13:56:00.000-08:002011-03-02T14:02:30.205-08:00Split tips and sore elbows.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcpiW6Rd6KwP6La7IazF_VQb-B1Y56yWxZ5_rWV7139DoZ6C_8SECr8rO8WYZp-LeV0D17fo-BMc70pStteQ_ft8OxaLaABaShogx6WD1GrQEEDvpqQIuUKaFX-k_5lwXvczjQdh46a_i/s1600/Wonderwall1_Crafnant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcpiW6Rd6KwP6La7IazF_VQb-B1Y56yWxZ5_rWV7139DoZ6C_8SECr8rO8WYZp-LeV0D17fo-BMc70pStteQ_ft8OxaLaABaShogx6WD1GrQEEDvpqQIuUKaFX-k_5lwXvczjQdh46a_i/s320/Wonderwall1_Crafnant.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>Most people would be a bit miffed abut a split tip. I actually quite like them in a strange way. The small crescent smile reminds you that you have actually trained hard enough this time, even though the next couple of sessions will be a bit sore.<br />
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I ventured out with Ray [Wood] a couple of days ago. Its been a while and it did remind me that as stated years ago: forget Gresham, Ray should charge by the session as the work out is second to none. Photographers god bless them, do forget that energy and skin (unlike a bag full of Provia and SD cards) dissipate. We where shooting for a book due out in the Autumn, titled 'Mountain Portraits' by Dr. Huw Lewis Davies (no relation). <br />
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Dr Huw was involved in the creation of the book 'La Homme et la Femme la Mer'. Very good stuff, and proud to be part of this new one, despite the skin loss.<br />
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Also, I ventured into the Climbing Academy in Bristol yesterday. I got the usual 'new boy' ass kicking, but held my own on the Beast-maker against a strong local youth called Omar, formerly of the Skinners School fame, Sussex/Surrey (? I forget which - damn good stock though, them young rascals). There was also another one. I didn't get the name, but he climbs like Katzy. Good technique, power and tenacity, but without the ski-whiff hairline (and not half as strong!). Good kids, and very enjoyable session. I joined the wall, just in case.<br />
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Peak tomorrow, Tracks and Sheep Pen on Saturday and Sunday potentially. Need to work the chest, looking a bit like the Hunchback of Notre Dame at the minute. And on....Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464132418556289104.post-14981074678844505162011-02-22T02:32:00.000-08:002011-02-22T03:57:10.483-08:00And moving on...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gamDmNWVvis9MyPLmRY26ijTQwveLNup4ZCu1Ewf0lTPnHtW1obuIE_fp9q6Nbwu1GX0x0KpG07Fzo8aTzzQdJOaJNzYeTkIuaBk_Ynv8fuUg101yVf3YbzCKgtaXc3lCN72vIiPWWjP/s1600/170928_10150091245638234_828383233_6162868_7297618_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gamDmNWVvis9MyPLmRY26ijTQwveLNup4ZCu1Ewf0lTPnHtW1obuIE_fp9q6Nbwu1GX0x0KpG07Fzo8aTzzQdJOaJNzYeTkIuaBk_Ynv8fuUg101yVf3YbzCKgtaXc3lCN72vIiPWWjP/s320/170928_10150091245638234_828383233_6162868_7297618_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Its always an odd thing, actually achieving. After all, I do spend an awful amount of time falling off. I'm not sure wether this is actually down to poor sending mentality, or actually enjoying the process far to much to actually want it to come to an end. Possibly a bit of both?</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">This is potentially 'old news' right now, and maybe to me in a way. The way the movement felt is still bubbling away inside, but very much fading to an ebb in my subconscious (as they all do). My Own Private Idaho was a huge step forward in my bouldering of late, and the effort that had to be put in to achieve this, some what off the couch, was borderline tremendous. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">It does seem that I go through fits and shits of managing to get myself up to a decent standard over a period of say, three to four months, only to have it all whisked away by work and other life commitments. I'm a busy man with three kids of the ages 7 weeks old to 8 years old. I work around 70 hours a week and drive up to an average of 1300 miles Monday to Friday (that's Llanberis to Austria in 'real-time'). This makes climbing at and then past your potential tricky, and maintaining and improving absolutely fucking desperate.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">I must admit, I watch young hotshots these days and do think - 'Come on, you can do so much better' (them, not me). Surely with all of that time on your hands... But then again, there is definitely a lack of imagination and wizardry going on - its so much easier to repeat than to search, clean, train, work the sequence, repeatedly fail, and then win - maybe. I think my most enjoyable part of the process is to clean a bloc, and chalk up the holds, finally standing back to admire what's been been created from a dormant piece of rock, now so much more than it once was (sorry, the only good hippy's a dead one kids!). </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Maybe it's the lack of time that gets me geared to go full on when I do get the time. Basically, I have no time to waste, so tend to not fuck about when I get out and about. So, this time I have decided that enough most definitely is not enough and I very much have some grown up aims to realise. So, time to move on, onwards and upwards ticking the big ones just as I should be. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">As for the naming of Private Idaho: Homoeroticism aside, to me being up there working this was very much akin to narcolepsy as I understand it. Being totally aware of getting to a place, looking around and pottering and then... Two hours have come and gone, time to check the hour. What happened there? I get so wrapped up when I climb alone that I really do disappear for a short while, waiting for a calm in the atmosphere. Waiting for the that perfect moment to pull. Waiting for the perfect time to move on.</span></span><br />
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</span></span>Chris Davieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02521390267485454808noreply@blogger.com0