Tuesday, 1 May 2012

A Touch to Much.

So, it's been a while.  My writing hand has been quite busy recently, mostly having been put to use pulling on small holds which it may have recently transpired, are potentially too small for me.

I say potentially, because in the optimistic bubble (within which I exist), they never stay too small for too long.   I'll ignore the last hours worth of trashing the hotel rooms' door frames (which I have yet to maintain for another couple of weeks), and do my usual; which is to pretend that all good things come easy.  Wow - Rock 'n' Roll.  Trashing the door frames.  Obviously, this was after I threw the TV out of the window.

My main objective this year still hasn't come about.  It's difficult this particular line.  I wasn't sure at first, and so played the whole thing down in my head.  After continued and protracted efforts, it has become apparent that indeed the holds are utterly rubbish, the rock is steep and the last move is a long way - a 6 ft move off a less than 1/4 inch pad with minimal in-cut, to a very large swing.

I am now hanging off a slightly loose, although highly glossed door frame in Towcester.  If it pulls off, I have some blue tack.  That should be enough to adhere the wood back onto the plaster until the cleaning lady has been in, assessed the room to ensure that it is damage free and has left again.  I'm guessing that either a roofer on contract or a travelling PC salesman will get the shit tomorrow, just before checking out.  At least my fingers will get closer to the 10% they need.

I'm still enjoying the process though, as ever.  Although I do wish that I was slightly more progressive on this one, as opposed to doing a 'Michael Jackson' on it.  I've always been a bit crap at moon-walking, but it does feel a like I'm quite an authority at the minute. It would be nice to get this done before the conditions come and go, and according to Bubbles, its forecast to be the coldest May EVER!  It would be good and I do feel as though, having been so close only three weeks ago, that I may have earned the privilege of topping out this side of my 39th birthday.

The last couple of months haven't been a complete loss however, and a couple of bits came and went whilst still fun. I think that these last two are very worthwhile, so if your waiting for new Welsh difficulties, maybe go and try these for a bit.  Don't rush and get them done to quickly though, the pressure might just get to much to bare.

                                        Terror Twilight 7c+, Nant Peris, North Wales

New Noise 8a+, Tan y Grisiau, North Wales


  1. For fucks sake change the font you bastard you cant read that shit.

  2. Easy tiger! That's just you that is, farmer boy. Anyhow, just for you...